Stephen Manion steps up to replace LeRiche in Stiaan Louw's latest ad campaign. I sat down with Stiaan to find out more about the new collection.
MOTC: Stiaan, Your latest collection is such a breath of fresh air. It certainly reflects a notable change in your style while still maintaining the Stiaan Louw ethos. What brought on this change?
SL: I spent last year pursuing almost every opportunity that came my way... I found myself somewhat exhausted at the end of it and still stuck on using a predominantly black palette. I wanted to create a 'quiet' collection, focused on the construction of the clothes, however simple...and make the design of the clothes the focal point again...I'm learning how to say 'no'.
MOTC: You unveiled the collection at this years 2010 Design Indaba, which I was able to attend, and it was quite a beautiful and elegant showing. How did you come about the themes and choreography?
SL: I knew I wanted the collection to speak of where I was at that particular moment in time. I wanted it to be 'soft', simple and minimalist. Brett Rubin (the campaign photographer) and I have been working together for several seasons now and there is a wonderful synergy between us. Before he left for Johannesburg on a road trip I gave him a shirt from the collection and described the mood and feel to him. He surprised me with the most beautiful photographs of landscapes which then became a strong component of the show. The choreography was done by Juanita Daniel and Jan Malan... I have worked with them on all my shows and they seem to understand the underlying ethos of my brand. The music was quite different from my normal choices for shows, but I also wanted to tone that down, use something more thought-provoking and 'mature' to accompany the shift.
MOTC: Your latest campaign boy Stephen is quite a contrast to his predecessor LeRiche with a very old-worldly look to him, was there a conscious decision to this choice?
SL: Yes, I saw Stephen at Design Indaba in 2009 and knew I wanted to create a collection around him, but the time was not right... I first had to go through the experience of last year...then at the beginning of this year I knew I wanted my work to capture a more mature, softer approach...he seemed to capture this and I made contact again.
MOTC: Tell me some more about the Look-book:
SL: The look-book happened a day or two before the show, it was unplanned... Brett had presented the images of the landscapes to me just the day before. They spoke to me on so many different levels... of where my work was, which direction I wanted to take it in and also of where I was emotionally. Over coffee, while looking at the images he offered to shoot the look-book the next morning, a day before leaving for Johannesburg. The experience felt similar to that of the first 'Next Generation Campaign' I did with him. It was simple, effortless and 'uncluttered'. Those are also some of the words I now remind myself of while designing...its where I started initially.
MOTC: Tell me a bit about the fabrics used, also comparing them to prior season. They seem like they have more texture. I also notice you didn't have any black in this collection either:
SL: All the fabrics are still cottons and viscose, but I decided on a lighter colour palette...Even though its a winter collection I wanted it to move away from the edgier black I did before. I wanted it to look more tailored in a way and opted for fabrics with more texture. I think it goes hand in hand with the fact that I don't want to necessarily be know as a designer whose work is only aimed at a the edgy youth market as I have been described as before. I didn't want that to be the predominant perception of my work.
MOTC: You like to keep things 'in the family' in a sense using photographer Brett Rubin and stylist Nicole Van Heerden again, I imagine they 'get' your vision?
SL: I have had the opportunity to work with a variety of people on my collections, but I tend to return to the ones I feel I have a good 'rhythm' and trust with. This is very important to me in all my relationships. Brett has an understanding of what I want to achieve and he is open to the process...it makes it unbelievably effortless. Also I think you develop a visual language with the people you collaborate with over time...it is something that needs nurturing. For instance, in this look book Brett did a shot of Stephen from the side which reminded me of the shot of Chris Wagner from the back in the Next Generation Johannesburg campaign.
MOTC: How is your affiliation with Astore going? Any plans to open a stand-alone of your own like David West?
SL: Astore has been a positive experience. When I approached them the first time after Fashion Week 2008 I knew there was amazing potential for my brand in the store. I feel that this potential is being realised and that it can only grow stronger from here. I am considering my own stand alone store, but I feel that it is a huge responsibility. I have many friends with stores and would like to think that I will be well prepare once I do it. I have always believed in taking things slowly, in the hope of not burning out or making too many financial mistakes.
MOTC: I loved the stretchy jean-tracksuit pants in the show, how did you come up with that idea?
SL: I have been playing with smart tracksuit pants since the beginning of the menswear. First I had it in a tux drop-crotch version and then with zips on the inner leg to tighten or loosen the leg. I think I have finally created a shape that is comfortable and easy to wear, but can be worn with a suit jacket or a simple vest.
MOTC: I think the detailing of this collection is so great. Long spread lapels, high double 'bunny collars' and a lot of your signature layering. It seems like you've taken a lot of care into these details.
SL: I think the details are most important with menswear. I often look at guys shopping and more often than not, the discerning shopper doesn't pay much attention to the obviously 'designed' clothes... they understand what a beautifully made collar looks like, or a lapel that folds perfectly. Since I have stared my mentorship with House of Monatic through the Cape Town Fashion Council, this has become a focal point and something I will continue to focus on. Fit is key!
MOTC: Are there any other menswear designers you're watching from the corner of eye?
SL: Locally? Not really, not that i don't think they are not out there...I just prefer to focus on my own work and not to get involved in politics...I think it distracts from the focus.
MOTC: So... what's next for Stiaan Louw?
SL: I may be doing Africa Fashion Week next...but making sure I provide my clients with beautiful product and expanding on that base is my focal point for this year, but I'm doing it slowly and with consideration.
MOTC: Stiaan, Your latest collection is such a breath of fresh air. It certainly reflects a notable change in your style while still maintaining the Stiaan Louw ethos. What brought on this change?
SL: I spent last year pursuing almost every opportunity that came my way... I found myself somewhat exhausted at the end of it and still stuck on using a predominantly black palette. I wanted to create a 'quiet' collection, focused on the construction of the clothes, however simple...and make the design of the clothes the focal point again...I'm learning how to say 'no'.
MOTC: You unveiled the collection at this years 2010 Design Indaba, which I was able to attend, and it was quite a beautiful and elegant showing. How did you come about the themes and choreography?
SL: I knew I wanted the collection to speak of where I was at that particular moment in time. I wanted it to be 'soft', simple and minimalist. Brett Rubin (the campaign photographer) and I have been working together for several seasons now and there is a wonderful synergy between us. Before he left for Johannesburg on a road trip I gave him a shirt from the collection and described the mood and feel to him. He surprised me with the most beautiful photographs of landscapes which then became a strong component of the show. The choreography was done by Juanita Daniel and Jan Malan... I have worked with them on all my shows and they seem to understand the underlying ethos of my brand. The music was quite different from my normal choices for shows, but I also wanted to tone that down, use something more thought-provoking and 'mature' to accompany the shift.
MOTC: Your latest campaign boy Stephen is quite a contrast to his predecessor LeRiche with a very old-worldly look to him, was there a conscious decision to this choice?
SL: Yes, I saw Stephen at Design Indaba in 2009 and knew I wanted to create a collection around him, but the time was not right... I first had to go through the experience of last year...then at the beginning of this year I knew I wanted my work to capture a more mature, softer approach...he seemed to capture this and I made contact again.
MOTC: Tell me some more about the Look-book:
SL: The look-book happened a day or two before the show, it was unplanned... Brett had presented the images of the landscapes to me just the day before. They spoke to me on so many different levels... of where my work was, which direction I wanted to take it in and also of where I was emotionally. Over coffee, while looking at the images he offered to shoot the look-book the next morning, a day before leaving for Johannesburg. The experience felt similar to that of the first 'Next Generation Campaign' I did with him. It was simple, effortless and 'uncluttered'. Those are also some of the words I now remind myself of while designing...its where I started initially.
MOTC: Tell me a bit about the fabrics used, also comparing them to prior season. They seem like they have more texture. I also notice you didn't have any black in this collection either:
SL: All the fabrics are still cottons and viscose, but I decided on a lighter colour palette...Even though its a winter collection I wanted it to move away from the edgier black I did before. I wanted it to look more tailored in a way and opted for fabrics with more texture. I think it goes hand in hand with the fact that I don't want to necessarily be know as a designer whose work is only aimed at a the edgy youth market as I have been described as before. I didn't want that to be the predominant perception of my work.
MOTC: You like to keep things 'in the family' in a sense using photographer Brett Rubin and stylist Nicole Van Heerden again, I imagine they 'get' your vision?
SL: I have had the opportunity to work with a variety of people on my collections, but I tend to return to the ones I feel I have a good 'rhythm' and trust with. This is very important to me in all my relationships. Brett has an understanding of what I want to achieve and he is open to the process...it makes it unbelievably effortless. Also I think you develop a visual language with the people you collaborate with over time...it is something that needs nurturing. For instance, in this look book Brett did a shot of Stephen from the side which reminded me of the shot of Chris Wagner from the back in the Next Generation Johannesburg campaign.
MOTC: How is your affiliation with Astore going? Any plans to open a stand-alone of your own like David West?
SL: Astore has been a positive experience. When I approached them the first time after Fashion Week 2008 I knew there was amazing potential for my brand in the store. I feel that this potential is being realised and that it can only grow stronger from here. I am considering my own stand alone store, but I feel that it is a huge responsibility. I have many friends with stores and would like to think that I will be well prepare once I do it. I have always believed in taking things slowly, in the hope of not burning out or making too many financial mistakes.
MOTC: I loved the stretchy jean-tracksuit pants in the show, how did you come up with that idea?
SL: I have been playing with smart tracksuit pants since the beginning of the menswear. First I had it in a tux drop-crotch version and then with zips on the inner leg to tighten or loosen the leg. I think I have finally created a shape that is comfortable and easy to wear, but can be worn with a suit jacket or a simple vest.
MOTC: I think the detailing of this collection is so great. Long spread lapels, high double 'bunny collars' and a lot of your signature layering. It seems like you've taken a lot of care into these details.
SL: I think the details are most important with menswear. I often look at guys shopping and more often than not, the discerning shopper doesn't pay much attention to the obviously 'designed' clothes... they understand what a beautifully made collar looks like, or a lapel that folds perfectly. Since I have stared my mentorship with House of Monatic through the Cape Town Fashion Council, this has become a focal point and something I will continue to focus on. Fit is key!
MOTC: Are there any other menswear designers you're watching from the corner of eye?
SL: Locally? Not really, not that i don't think they are not out there...I just prefer to focus on my own work and not to get involved in politics...I think it distracts from the focus.
MOTC: So... what's next for Stiaan Louw?
SL: I may be doing Africa Fashion Week next...but making sure I provide my clients with beautiful product and expanding on that base is my focal point for this year, but I'm doing it slowly and with consideration.
