A year ago I wrote to Neil Doveton to hopefully grace the pages of this blog with an interview on the experience of going off to Milan fashion week. Posted ironically one year ago today 'The Diary of an Editor' was quite popular and so when I got the opportunity to get a few answers again from the Mens Health fashion editor I jumped for it. Here is our interview with enlightening, humble and funny responses from Neil. You can also follow him on Twitter now here.
What was your overall impression of Milan fashion week this year?
After last year’s recession-hit runways, where collections distinctly reflected the previous season with most designers playing it safe and sombre, there is no doubt that this year the spirit is high and it would appear that finance has energised the catwalks.
Who had the best collection in your opinion?
That’s always a really tough question as each designer has something that makes them unique and special. It really all depends what you’re looking for. But there are undeniably a few that had fashionistas and journalists talking for days. Burberry Prorsum pushed some boundaries with an innovative collection that saw Christopher Bailey returning to crafts in an era where fashion is strongly focused on technology. He successfully combined Burberry’s strict Brit heritage with tribal influences: whimsical straw hats, crocheted raffia jerseys, felt appliqués, and American Indian stitching on cork-soled shoes. A completely unexpected collection that embraced the overall feel of Spring/Summer 2012 which sees fashion take on a more relaxed approach, stimulating a nostalgic sense of travel and exotic destination. D&G took us on a journey to the East, melding denim with foulard, a lightweight woven silk or silk and cotton mix with prints reflecting an eastern mosaic and finishing the look with moccasins. A smart combination of rough and smooth by Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce that embodied a light and summery collection and enthuses to make take that vacation.
There are also definite ethnic influences from all over the world, it almost feels as though one has travelled to exotic destinations, collecting elements of ethnic wear and mixing in with a traditionally Western wardrobe .The look is laid back and comfortable. Easy to wear. But if this all seems a bit too much for you don’t stress – you will find a pair of linen cargos too. Pair up with a Henley t-shirt and flip flops and you’re set for your hols in Hermanus. I also loved the Ermanno Scervino collection. Simple styling, understated and easy to wear it had all the offerings of SS2012 – muted colours with accents of orange and blue and a core of linen, whether a tailored suit or layers of casual items. Paired with suede loafers it’s a look that says “relax and be comfortable”
Another big trend – and one that is sure to become extremely commercial is the invasion of cobalt blue and citrus orange! Beware – it’s seriously bright though and I’d go so far as to say that this is a trend best left to the young and funky. But going boldly blue doesn’t necessarily mean top to toe. It can be picked up in the subtle check of a dark suit or used to brighten a combination of muted earthy tones and khaki favourites as seen in DSQUARED2’s clever combinations with bright accents. But if you are feeling brave – go ahead and make a bold statement – one that says “you are trendy guy that knows his stuff!”
The “drop crotch” ( yeah, I agree, it’s a terrible term but it is what it is!) reshapes the menswear silhouette and the skinnier more sharply tailored and extreme cuts of seasons passed are definitely giving way to roomier, looser fits.
At first I was a little anxious about this trend but after having seen it on the runways in various lengths of “drop” and trying on a few pairs at Zara that weren’t overly exaggerated I confess I quite like it. I remember my (and most of my colleagues!!) initial reluctance (and horror)when the boot-cut gave way to the skinny-fit but after a season or 2 we have pretty much all packed our boot-cut jeans away. I predict it won’t be long before the average guy is donning a pair of drop-crotch chinos.
What was your MFW highlight?
The thing I love most about my annual pilgrimage to Milan, the heart and the heat of menswear, is besides the totally inspiring and exhilarating shows there is always a nice little surprise moment. This year I cracked an invite to the hugely glamorous launch of the David Gandy by Dolce & Gabbana book.
Gandy rose to fame as a model for Dolce & Gabbana, and the book is a documentation of this journey retracing his steps from his first moments in the fashion world, through pictures Steven Klein dedicated to him during advertising campaigns to his most recent campaign of the fragrance “Light Blue” shot by Mario Testino - you will recognise Gandy as the white-Speedo-wearing demi-god in the “Light Blue” fragrance TV commercial with the super-sexy Montenegrin beauty Marija Vuyovic.
This must-have coffee table showpiece has also been enriched with new images shot exclusively for this project by Mariano Vivanco, the photographer whose camera captured David Gandy’s sensuality in an iconic calendar in 2008. My claim to fame – well, I got to stand (perchance!) within an arms distance of this iconic model, but was caught completely off my guard to the extent that I fumbled so much I couldn’t take a photo! I guess I will just have to get the book instead.
But even more inspiring than this was meeting my hero and all time favourite fashion blogger 'The Sartorialist', Scott Schuman. (yes, Marco – you are my next favourite!) Humble, contained and totally unassuming it was indeed a real honour to meet him. www.thesartorialist.blogspot.com
Was there any one particular look/collection that was unwearable/horrible in your mind?
It has to be the espadrille! The chosen shoe of yesteryear’s Spanish fishermen makes a huge comeback. And having grown up in the era of Tom Selleck and Miami Vice the thought of a linen suit (or linen anything for that matter) and espadrilles had the fashionista in me cringing. But after seeing it on both catwalk and sidewalk, and with not a single Hawaiian shirt in sight, it began to have a certain appeal. Who knows I might yet surprise myself and embrace it’s return. Um, well, I dunno - maybe not.
